THE NEW LOOK -- A Disappointing Depiction of Chanel vs. Dior

Review by Tatiana Miranda

At first glance, Apple TV+'s new series The New Look might seem like a standard historical fashion drama about Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, but the series — and the designers' realities — are much more complicated. Named after Dior's style of fashion in the late 1940s and 50s, the show focuses on famous French designers Coco Chanel and Christian Dior during and following the Nazi occupation of France during WWII. 

Similar to how Chanel's and Dior's respective fashion styles were deemed opposites of one another, the two figures reacted to the Nazi occupation in varying ways. The series opens as Dior nervously presents his new fashion line at a press conference. Meanwhile, Chanel smears him in an interview and, later in the series, to Nazi officers. From Dior's quiet disposition and structured designs to Chanel's outspokenness and more comfortable fashion style, the characters could not be more unalike. Yet, they both find themselves in the crosshairs of Nazi-occupied France.

For years, Chanel's romance with a high-ranking German officer and use of anti-Semitic laws to gain control of her company from Jewish business partners were long hidden. However, due to recently published biographies on the designer, Chanel's unsavory connections to the Nazis have come to light and restarted the discussion of her ethics. ​

Meanwhile, Dior's younger sister, Catherine, was a member of the French resistance who survived a concentration camp. While Dior himself wasn't an active member of the resistance, he worked hard to help his sister and used his experiences to create the "New Look," which became a symbol of hope and change as the war ended. 

The New Look takes on a lot in terms of characters, subjects, themes, and even talent, as the series features stars like Ben Mendelsohn, Maisie Williams, John Malkovich, Juliette Binoche, and Emily Mortimer. With so much to tackle in a ten-episode series, some things felt sped up or underdeveloped — namely, Catherine Dior's experiences as a French resistance member and concentration camp survivor. ​

Since the series focuses more on her brother, her work in the resistance and experiences in the concentration camp come second. This would be more understandable if the elder Dior were a fascinating lead character, but his shy personality and understated conflicts make him one of the least interesting characters of the series. Moments of triumph, such as the announcement halfway through the series that he would be starting his own fashion house, feel lackluster as there are hardly any emotional ties between the character and the viewer. 

On the other hand, Coco Chanel is a complex lead character who just wants what's best for herself and her legacy, even if that means collaborating with the Nazis. Dior is even seen in a similar position, as he is forced to design gowns for a Nazi ball to provide for his family, but the choice doesn't hold the same weight or narrative influence as Chanel's storyline.

While The New Look is an eye-opening look at Chanel's involvement with the Nazis, it is ultimately a dull depiction of the effects of WWII on the French fashion industry and its main designers. Even Chanel's feud with Dior, which resulted from her need for relevancy, is downplayed as simple petty remarks. Although the series has a stellar cast and a beautiful soundtrack produced by Jack Antonoff, it is an unremarkable telling of remarkable historical figures.

The New Look premiers on Apple TV+ on February 14th. All ten episodes reviewed.​

Rating: 2/5